Lot n° 144  | Auction 519

Estimate € 5,000 - 8,000

Auction: 21 September 2021 at 10:30

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[GASTRONOMIA] - LE SIEUR, Robert (1643-1687) - L'Art de bien traiter; divisé en trois parties. Ouvrage nouveau, curieux, et fort galant. Paris: Jean Du Puis, 1674. First Edition of this rare and interesting French treatise on gastronomy and cooking by Robert le Sieur. Attacking the traditional French cuisine embodied, at that time, by François Pierre de La Varenne, Le Sieur proposes a new style, many new recipes, and many other useful information to understand the gastronomy and customs at the end of the seventeenth century, details on the mise en place of the tables, including suggestions for outdoor dining (in caves, gardens, woods, etc.). The preface of the text is remarkably interesting, with the details of the attack by Le Sieur to the famous gastronome and author of the time, La Varenne, author of the famous Cuisinier Francois, a work published in 1651 and reprinted several times until the printing of this text. Only two editions are known, the present first edition, shared between the two printer Jean Du Puys and Frédéric Léonard (mentioned in the King’s privilege) and a Lyonnaise reissue of 1693. The book is divided into three parts: the first explores Les Potages (the soups), Des Entrées (Starters), Les viandes à rostir (Roast meats), Des Salades (Salad), Des Entremets (Savoury and side dishes), The dining room and Mise en place, How to serve foods and it ends with a selection of detailed recipes for all the seasons; thes second part is about Seafood and fishes, Legumes and Pastry; the third and final part is dedicated to suggestion for indoor and outdoor dining, with specific menu for all seasons and mise en place. Only little is known about the author of this treatise: " Ce personnage énigmatique est pourtant l'auteur du livre le plus représentatif du renouveau de la cuisine française à l'âge classique. Même s'il critique les archaïsmes, gueuseries et dégoûtantes leçons du cuisinier françois (…)Robert bouleverse moins les innovations de La Varenne qu'il ne les radicalise et les systématise (…). Tous ces choix tendent également à respecter le goût véritable des choses, dans la recherche d'une simplicité raffinée, désormais assimilée à la vraie délicatesse en matière de cuisine et fait de l'art culinaire l'un des lieux où s'éprouvent la politesse des moeurs". [ This enigmatic character is however the author of the most representative book of the revival of French cuisine in the classical age. Even if he criticizes the archaisms, gueuseries and disgusting lessons of the French cook (…) Robert upsets the innovations of La Varenne less than he radicalizes and systematizes them (…). All these choices also tend to respect the real taste of things, in the search for a refined simplicity, henceforth assimilated to the true delicacy in matters of cuisine and makes the culinary art one of the places where politeness is more experienced]. Bibliothèque de l'Arsenal, Livres en bouche, 115. 8vo (154 x 91mm). Woodcut vignette on title, initials and friezes (neat restoration at lower margin of title, light traces of use and foxing, without final blank). Contemporary vellum, red speckled edgess (minimal imperfections).


Estimate € 5,000 - 8,000

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